However, I have been able to discern that it's made on the same line as the K&N filter, but will a media that is slightly better at filtration. Based on testing by others I still think this is a really good filter. The AMSOIL SDF-20 filter is well constructed and lab tests show that it's an excellent filter.
On the other hand, it's big brother the SDF-44 did not filter oil well at 13,000 miles.
The K&N HP-1004 is a great filter.
Lab tests using Mobil 1 at 7500 miles indicates that this filter works as well as the AMSOIL SDF-20. The FRAM x2 (and only the FRAM x2 Series) is probably the most heavily constructed filter I've seen so far.
Of note with the construction were the following features: metal screen backing the media, heavy metal end caps (base register have cardboard), and 2 layer filter medium. Lab testing indicates this filter is fine at 5000 miles use with Mobil 1. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. However, lab tests do not indicate that the valve jams or fails to work.
While both the STP and the Bosch filters were at one point good filters, they are now manufactured off shore of sub-standard parts. The filter assemblies tended not to have even pleats and generally less media than other comparable filters. There was also a complete lack of a well functioning by-pass valve. With most filters there is an obvious and discrete by-pass valve, but with these filters the can spring and the by-pass valve are the same. The real issue is that in order for the filter to properly by-pass the entire mobil one oil filters assembly would have to move down during use. That is actually not possible with filter assembly properly seating into the anti-drain back valve. This means that the by-pass will effectively never work. In the center of the of picture below you see the filter assembly (top) and the can spring/by-pass valve (bottom). A serious word of caution to experimenters: if you are thinking of trying out different/oversized filters, or ones we haven't listed here, be careful. In the course of testing, we tried a Purolator PureOne oversized batter; it leaked pretty bad. If you experiment, be very careful, and look over the filter before testing it. Check the filter immediately upon starting the motor and look for leaks. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on it, and monitor oil pressure if possible. Also keep in mind the difference in bypass spring pressures as this may dramatically affect the way your vehicle's oiling system operates. Check with the k and n oil filters manufacturer for exact bypass spring specs, most will usually provide this information via simple email contact with you. Cutting oil filters open isn't as easy as it sounds.
What I did was cut the case just above the seam that is located by the base-plate (I'm calling the base-plate the end that screws onto the engine - it's the heaviest plate of the consigner). Unfortunately I cannot test the paper elements themselves to determine their actual filtering measurements and this is a very important key-measure. Also, I am not an oil filter expert, I've just been maintaining my own cars probably like most of you and have been doing it since I started driving at 14, today I'm 50. I've put on and taken off a hell-of-a-lot of oil filters. I'm maintaining 5 cars right now (2 for me, wife's, daughter's, and son's). I don't know anymore about dressmaker, though, than you'll know after reading this report and others you might find on the internet. I've owned a lot of cars, probably 20 or so including pick-ups. I've found Toyotas to be most excellent automobiles, really durable and well made (but you know that already) and I've owned 4 of them with 3 of those being Corollas.
Over the years, I've bought about every oil filter brand out there. I've never really known what was inside oil filters either, or much about how they worked. I imagine there are engineers out there that spend an entire career designing oil filters. I can see there is a lot of science, both design, material and production, in oil filters.
On the other hand, it's big brother the SDF-44 did not filter oil well at 13,000 miles.
The K&N HP-1004 is a great filter.
Lab tests using Mobil 1 at 7500 miles indicates that this filter works as well as the AMSOIL SDF-20. The FRAM x2 (and only the FRAM x2 Series) is probably the most heavily constructed filter I've seen so far.
Of note with the construction were the following features: metal screen backing the media, heavy metal end caps (base register have cardboard), and 2 layer filter medium. Lab testing indicates this filter is fine at 5000 miles use with Mobil 1. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. However, lab tests do not indicate that the valve jams or fails to work.
While both the STP and the Bosch filters were at one point good filters, they are now manufactured off shore of sub-standard parts. The filter assemblies tended not to have even pleats and generally less media than other comparable filters. There was also a complete lack of a well functioning by-pass valve. With most filters there is an obvious and discrete by-pass valve, but with these filters the can spring and the by-pass valve are the same. The real issue is that in order for the filter to properly by-pass the entire mobil one oil filters assembly would have to move down during use. That is actually not possible with filter assembly properly seating into the anti-drain back valve. This means that the by-pass will effectively never work. In the center of the of picture below you see the filter assembly (top) and the can spring/by-pass valve (bottom). A serious word of caution to experimenters: if you are thinking of trying out different/oversized filters, or ones we haven't listed here, be careful. In the course of testing, we tried a Purolator PureOne oversized batter; it leaked pretty bad. If you experiment, be very careful, and look over the filter before testing it. Check the filter immediately upon starting the motor and look for leaks. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on it, and monitor oil pressure if possible. Also keep in mind the difference in bypass spring pressures as this may dramatically affect the way your vehicle's oiling system operates. Check with the k and n oil filters manufacturer for exact bypass spring specs, most will usually provide this information via simple email contact with you. Cutting oil filters open isn't as easy as it sounds.
What I did was cut the case just above the seam that is located by the base-plate (I'm calling the base-plate the end that screws onto the engine - it's the heaviest plate of the consigner). Unfortunately I cannot test the paper elements themselves to determine their actual filtering measurements and this is a very important key-measure. Also, I am not an oil filter expert, I've just been maintaining my own cars probably like most of you and have been doing it since I started driving at 14, today I'm 50. I've put on and taken off a hell-of-a-lot of oil filters. I'm maintaining 5 cars right now (2 for me, wife's, daughter's, and son's). I don't know anymore about dressmaker, though, than you'll know after reading this report and others you might find on the internet. I've owned a lot of cars, probably 20 or so including pick-ups. I've found Toyotas to be most excellent automobiles, really durable and well made (but you know that already) and I've owned 4 of them with 3 of those being Corollas.
Over the years, I've bought about every oil filter brand out there. I've never really known what was inside oil filters either, or much about how they worked. I imagine there are engineers out there that spend an entire career designing oil filters. I can see there is a lot of science, both design, material and production, in oil filters.
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